Getting Started with Handplanes by Scott Wynn

Getting Started with Handplanes by Scott Wynn

Author:Scott Wynn
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Fox Chapel Publishing


Figure 6-2. These upmarket block planes, the Veritas and the even more expensive Lie-Nielsen, can be the next step up from the Stanley #60 ½: better blades, more precise machining, and adjustability.

I prefer the low-angle #60 ½. I feel the low (12°) angle is inherently more versatile, as with a 25° bevel angle you get a 37° cutting angle. The lowest cutting angle you will get with the #09 ½, with its 20° bedding angle and a 25° bevel angle, is 45°. If you find yourself working with many difficult or tropical hardwoods, though, you might want to get the #09 ½ instead of, or in addition to, the #60 ½.

Some woodworkers will never have need for another plane, though I think once you experience the full effectiveness of this plane, you will begin to see where planes of other sizes and configurations can advance your work.

Do not get a block plane without an adjustable throat. Many of the cheapest—and, conversely, the most expensive—versions of this plane come without an adjustable throat. It would be pointless, as an adjustable throat is what gives this plane its great versatility. With it, you can have both the power stroke of a heavy farm tractor and the finesse of a fine sports car. Without it, you have just one or the other.

With the mass-market planes such as Record or Stanley, I would seriously consider upgrading the blade to a good quality alloy or laminated blade—an alloy blade if the majority of your work is shaping (mine usually is), a laminated blade if you are doing more smoothing. I have had good luck with all the laminated blades I have tried and can highly recommend the good quality ones, even for rough work. On the other hand, I have a Veritas block plane now, which came with an A2 blade. This has proven to be durable and performs well even when smoothing gnarly woods. The blade that comes with the Stanley (the only other one I have direct experience with) is good if you plan to be planing around nails and will have to regrind frequently. However, as always, let your experience and skill dictate. If the blade you have is performing satisfactorily, do not change it. If, however, you find the blade dulling quicker than you like, or you are unable, despite tuning, to get the results of which you believe the plane is capable, then upgrade the blade.



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